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Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail

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Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail is a refreshing Spanish style Pickle Gin Tonic or Pickle Gin Tonica using Sweet Spiced Cumquat or Kumquat Pickles and their brine as a souring agent and accent of uplifting citrus and spice and a beautiful golden garnish. Cumquat Pickles are like little spiced sour marmalade lolly flavour bombs and make a beautiful and deliciously tart-sweet-spiced garnish for a Spring Gin Tonica with a Strawberry Gin paired with a Mediterranean Tonic and spices to match the pickles in the form of star anise, pink pepper and cardamom, all served over blocks of clear ice in a Copa de Balon or Gin Tonica glass.

History of the Gin & Tonic Cocktail

The Gin and Tonic Cocktail recipe has a long history with the first print reference to the drink appearing in The Oriental Sporting Magazine in 1868 in an article on the Sealkote Races – at this time quinine from Cinchona Bark in Tonic Water was used as a medicine to treat Malaria (for more on this see Greene 2022: 319-320). George Joy in the Oriental Sporting Magazine (1868: 838) writes:

“Loud cries of ‘gin and tonic’, ‘brandy and soda’, ‘cheroots,’ &c. told us the party was breaking up for the night…”

George Joy (1869) Sealkote Races,-1868. The Oriental Sporting Magazine, Volume 1, No. 11, 16 November 1868, 838.

A Gin and Tonic recipe appears in Charles H Baker’s (1939: 39) The Gentleman’s Companion cocktail manual calling for Gin, Tonic Water, ice and a lime twist. A key component of Charles Baker’s (1939: 39) recipe for a Gin and Tonic is a refreshing sour element brought in through carbonation and made complex by bitterness from quinine in the Tonic along with the essential aromatics of lime peel that accentuate the sourness of the carbonated Tonic. Baker (1939: 39) writes of how to make the Gin and Tonic and underscores the medicinal qualities of the drink indicating that over indulgence in what is essentially a medicinal preparation results in a terrible hangover where you feel like a reanimated long dead Mummy or as he puts it ‘Ramesses II, réchauffé’:

“This is merely a gin Highball, using dry or old Tom gin – either 1 or 1 ½ jiggers – and  filled up with chilled Quinine Tonic water…2 lumps of iced, and a twist of lime peel…remember it is a medicine and not primarily a stimulant only. On more than one occasion we have temporarily shown aberration on this subject,  with the result that our ears rang unmercifully and next day we felt like Ramesses II, réchauffé.”

Charles H Baker (1939: 39) The Gentleman’s Companion. The Derrydale Press: New York.

Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail

What is a Gin Tonic or Tonica Cocktail? Contemporary Spanish style Gin & Tonic

A Gin Tonica or Tonica Cocktail is a Spanish style Gin & Tonic or Gin Tonic comprising specially paired styles of Gin matched with contrasting or complementary flavoured Tonics, finished with fancy botanical garnishes including spices, herbs and fruits, vegetables and edible flowers. Accents of Liqueur, Aperitif, Fortified Wines including Vermouth, Amaro, Bitters or other ingredients such as jam or citrus juice may be used to draw out different flavour notes in the Gin and Tonic. David T. Smith (2017: 6) in Gin Tonica writes that the Spanish style Gin Tonica although known from the 1980’s, came to prominence in 2008-9 in Northern Spain, in the Basque region, appearing in the UK by 2011. David T. Smith (2017: 6) in Gin Tonica writes:

“So what is the Spanish Gin Tonica? It is a particular type of serve for a Gin and Tonic, using a large balloon-shaped glass, lots of ice and a colourful and aromatic garnish.”

David T. Smith (2017: 6) Gin Tonica. Ryland, Peters & Small: London.

Spanish Gin Tonica Gin to Tonic Ratio: 1:4

In David T. Smith’s recipes 1 ¾ oz. Gin is mixed with up to 5-6 3/4 oz. Tonic Water, but the ratio may be varied to taste or to suit a particular recipe if there are other lengtheners such as lime juice. A typical Spanish Gin Tonica may have a ratio of around 1:4 parts Gin to Tonic – for more about the Gin Tonica, see my post on Rainforest Gin Tonica. The typical ratio for a classic Gin and Tonic is 1:2, 1 part Gin to 2 parts Tonic, so the Spanish style Tonica has more Tonic, to sip slowly over large rocks of ice in a Copa de Balon.

How do you make a Gin Tonic or Tonica Cocktail? Build in the Glass

The Gin Tonica is built in the glass – in a special Copa de Balon glass or large Red Wine glass – over generous size rocks of clear ice, and finished with fancy and beautifully coloured aromatic botanical garnishes. The glassware itself is important in offering a way to experience more closely the aromatics of the drink while holding the stem allows the drinker to avoid the intense coldness from the ice.

Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail with Cumquat Pickles

How is the Pickle Cumquat Gin Tonica Cocktail Different: Pickle Twist on the Tonica

The Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail offers a unique pickle twist on the contemporary Spanish style Gin Tonica using spiced Cumquat Pickle Brine as a souring agent that also brings in a little sweetness, citrus notes and spice from star anise, cardamom and pink pepper, these are echoed in the garnish of a Cumquat Pickle and the same spices as aromatic botanical garnishes.

Gin & Tonic Pairings for the Cumquat Pickle Gin Tonica

I have made this recipe with three combinations of Gin and Tonic – each works well with the citrussy tart-sweet, spiced Cumquat Pickles and Cumquat Pickle Brine:

  • Strawberry Gin, Poor Tom’s,  with Mediterranean Tonic, Fever Tree (pictured)
  • Coffee Gin, St. Ali’s/Young Henry’s,  with Coastal Tonic, Strangelove
  • Japanese Gin, Roku, with Mediterranean Tonic, Fever Tree

Strawberry-Strawberry Gum-Cumquat Pickle-Citrus

The combination of sweet-tart fruity strawberry amplified by strawberry gum in the Gin and sweet-tart citrussy cumquat in the pickles is lovely drawing out fruitiness and refreshing tartness made complex with sweet warming star anise, cooling cardamom and fruity peppery notes of pink pepper from the pickles and their spiced White Wine Vinegar brine, paired well with citrus notes of Mediterranean Tonic.

Cascara-Enigma Hops-Angelica-Cumquat Pickle-Salt Bush

Citrussy tart-sweet cumquat works well with the fruitiness of Cascara in Coffee Gin, Salt Bush notes in Coastal Tonic accentuate this combination.

Yuzu-Cumquat Pickle-Citrus

Fruitiness of yuzu in Japanese Gin is also complemented by citrussy tart sweet cumquat flavour, paired with citrus notes in Mediterranean Tonic.

Tips: How to Make Clear Ice

My method for making clear ice is adapted from Dave Arnold’s (2014) How to Making Clear Ice in Your Freezer in Liquid Intelligencehere working on a small scale to fit a modest home fridge freezer. You only need some everyday kitchenware – a 1.5 Litre plastic lunch box and an insulated lunch bag that will fit the lunch box. Simply boil filtered water and pour carefully into the lunch container which is already inside the insulated lunch box. Allow to cool undisturbed and place in the freezer until frozen solid. Once frozen solid when ready to use remove from the freezer to temper or slightly melt to make it easier to cut rocks of ice – to do this carefully use a serrated bread knife. My tip is to hold the large block of ice using a clean tea towel while cutting to avoid it slipping. Discard any cloudy ice. Any additional rocks of ice that you cut can be stored in a clean container in the freezer for future use, or simply cut off what you need and place the rest of your block back in the freezer for future use.

How to Make Sweet Spiced Cumquat Pickles

Cumquat Pickles with sweet spices preserves fresh in season Winter and Spring cumquats in White Wine vinegar with a little sugar and star anise, pink pepper and cardamom. This recipe is inspired by one of my favourite Cornersmith (Elliott-Howery & Grant 2016: 234)recipes but offers a unique spice blend of star anise, pink pepper and cardamom, the Cornersmith ones use cummin, black pepper, cinnamon and cloves. I have made Cumquat Pickles at larger scale and with slightly different ingredients using coconut sugar and the addition of fennel seeds and ginger. This version uses plain caster sugar to allow for a more intense gold colour and a simple unique blend of 3 spices: star anise, cardamom and pink pepper.

Before cooking cumquats wash them well in warm clean water and remove the small green stalks from the ends. Cumquats are first gently cooked in the spiced brine made  of white wine vinegar, sugar, star anise, cardamom and pink pepper, to soften the hard outer skins of the cumquats and once packed into jars with spices and brine, heat treated meaning they have an extended shelf life of up to 2 years if kept in a dark, cool place. Refrigerate once opened and use within 6 months. Cumquat Pickles are like little sour lolly flavour bombs with delicious, spiced sour-sweet marmalade flavour – they make great cocktail garnishes. The spiced Cumquat Pickle brine can be used in place of citrus in cocktails for a sour element that additionally adds complex flavour from the combination of white wine vinegar, sugar, cumquats and sweet spices. See for example my post on Golden Cumquat Pickle Martini. The longer the pickles are laid down in storage the more the flavours develop and become complex and the jammier and thicker the brine will become.

How to Make a Cumquat Pickle Tonica: Build in the Glass

The Cumquat Pickle Tonica is built in the glass in a Copa de Balon or large Red Wine Glass over large rocks of clear ice with Gin added first, then pickle brine, then tonic, finally the garnishes are added the spices first and finally a Cumquat Pickle. I do not stir the cocktail as the carbonated tonic does an excellent job of mixing the ingredients. The garnishes selected add aromatics and colourful visual presentation as well as a sour-sweet explosion of spiced complex Cumquat Pickle to finish. Each spice in addition to aromatics has chemesthetic qualities or sensations – star anise offers liquorice flavour and a sweet warming sensation, while cardamom has a cooling or mint like sensation and pink pepper offers a warming fruity peppery sensation. All are present in the complex aged Cumquat Pickles and brine amplified by the amazing cumquat sweet citrussy aroma from the peel and sour taste of the cumquat fruit and the White Wine Vinegar in the brine making for a golden coloured citrussy sweet-sour-spice explosion of intense layered complex sour flavour.

Detail of a Cumquat Pickle Garnish from a Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail

Styling & Photographing the Cumquat Pickle Gin Tonica

The styling for this cocktail is all about the golden colour of the Cumquat Pickles which I have accentuated through shooting against a golden velvet backdrop with a yellow background and the bubbles in the carbonated Tonic Water.

Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail and Cumquat Pickles

Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail

Print Recipe
Serves: 1 block Clear Ice; 2 x 500ml jars of Cumquat Pickles; 1 Cumquat Pickle Tonica Cocktail. Cooking Time: Clear Ice: 2 days, 25 minutes (2 days freezing time,10-15 minutes tempering, 10 minutes to cut); Cumquat Pickles: 1 hour (30 minutes preparation, 15 minutes to sterilise jars and 15 minutes to heat treat), Cumquat Pickle Tonica: 5 minutes.

Ingredients

  • CLEAR ICE: 1 Litre Filtered Water
  • 1.5 Litre Plastic Lunch Box (no lid), insulated lunch container into which this plastic container will fit
  • CUMQUAT PICKLES: 500grms cumquats, washed, destalked
  • 330mls White Wine Vinegar
  • 165mls Water
  • 165grms Caster Sugar
  • 4 Star Anise
  • 1tspn Cardamom
  • 1tspn Pink Pepper
  • 2 x 500ml glass jars with lids
  • CUMQUAT PICKLE GIN TONICA: 2 large rocks of clear ice
  • 1 ½ oz. Strawberry Gin, Poor Tom’s used here
  • 2 barspoons Cumquat Pickle Brine
  • 5oz. Mediterranean Tonic, Fever Tree used here
  • 1 star anise pod
  • 3 cardamom pods
  • 3-4 pink pepper corns
  • 1 Cumquat Pickle on a cocktail pick
  • Copa de Balon or large Red Wine or Gin Cocktail Glass

Instructions

1

CLEAR ICE: Add filtered water to a kettle or saucepan and heat until boiling.

2

Prepare an insulated container such as a 1.5 Litre plastic lunch box by placing inside an insulated lunch bag (without the lid).

3

Carefully pour boiled filtered water into your container and set aside to cool.

4

Carefully place cooled water in the freezer and freeze until a large block of clear ice has formed.

5

To create rocks of clear ice – remove the container from the freezer and let the ice block melt for 10-15 minutes until there is a smooth, liquid coating to the ice (rather than a frosted appearance). Turn out onto a cutting block and carefully cut the ice using a serrated knife such as bread knife to create a guide cut which should then split the block. Discard any bubbled, unclear ice by cutting off the block.

6

CUMQUAT PICKLES: Add vinegar, sugar, water, and spices to a saucepan and cook over medium heat until sugar dissolves.

7

Add cumquats and cook for 1-2 minutes until the skin turns glossy, remove using a slotted spoon or strainer.

8

Pack cumquats into sterile glass jars - See Resources - and pour over hot brine, run butter knife around jar to remove air bubbles.

9

Wipe jars with a clean tea towel and add lids.

10

Heat-treat for 15 minutes - See Resources.

11

Store in a cool, dark place for up to 2 years. Allow 1 month for flavours to develop. Once opened refrigerate and use within 6 months.

12

CUMQUAT PICKLE GIN TONICA: Add 2 large rocks of clear ice to a Copa de Balon or large Red Wine of Gin Cocktail Glass

13

Add Gin

14

Add Cumquat Pickle Brine

15

Add Tonic Water to top

16

Add star anise, cardamom and pink pepper with long handled tweezers

17

Add Cumquat Pickle on a cocktail pick

Notes

Clear Ice

Dave Arnold (2014). Liquid Intelligence: The Art and Science of the Perfect Cocktail. W.W. Norton & Company: New York & London.

Pickles

Alex Elliott-Howery & James Grant (2016). Cornersmith: Recipes from the café and picklery. Murdoch Books: Crows Nest, Sydney.

Gin and Tonic, Gin Tonic, Gin Tonica

Charles Baker Jnr (1939). The Gentleman’s Companion. Volume II. The Derrydale Press: New York.

Philip Greene (2022: 319-320). Gin and Tonic. In: David Wondrich with Noah Rothbaum (2022). The Oxford Companion to Spirits & Cocktails.Oxford University Press: New York.

George Joy (1869). Sealkote Races,-1868. The Oriental Sporting Magazine, Volume 1, No. 11, 16 November 1868, 838.

David T. Smith (2017). Gin Tonica. Ryland, Peters & Small: London.

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